Lisa Lilley visited Malta, sailed on Ponant’s Le Dumont d’Urville and stayed in St Tropez in May 2026.
I went to the Mediterranean with three questions. What is Malta really like, how does a small-ship Ponant cruise compare with the other cruise lines, and which St Tropez hotel is right for which traveller? Here is what I found.
My first impression was how sandstone-coloured everything is. Almost every building is made of the same stone, which gives the island a wonderfully uniform look, and the coastline is dramatic wherever you stand. Malta is a destination for history, architecture and scenery rather than sandy beaches, as most of the coast is rocky.
St Julian’s is the entertainment hub, with endless bars and restaurants and a lively evening crowd, which suits travellers who enjoy that energy. Valletta is busier by day, with narrow cobbled streets, shops and cafés. St John’s Co-Cathedral is unmissable, and the free audio guide is excellent.
I stayed at two hotels. The Hyatt Regency St Julian is a very solid four-star, with excellent service, comfortable rooms and lovely linen. Its rooftop pool and bar is the highlight, and the buffet breakfast was fresher than I expected. The Hilton is a large, recently renovated resort right on the water, with generous bathrooms and an adults-only pool. It is a resort in the true sense, with everything on site rather than within walking distance, and the bar music finishes around 10pm. It is a large property with several towers, so allow a little time to find your way to the pools.
Getting between areas is easiest by taxi, as the districts are spread out and the roads are narrow. If I returned, I would stay in Valletta or around Spinola Bay for a waterfront feel.
My favourite day was Mdina and Rabat. Mdina, the “Silent City”, has medieval streets and sandstone that glows in the sun. If you leave the coast only once, make it for these two towns. The Blue Lagoon is very popular with boat trips, so go early if it is on your list.
I really enjoyed my time in Malta and feel it is a destination you only need to visit once. If I returned, I would give myself a couple more days to explore Gozo and spend more time on the water. Temperatures ranged from about 23 to 30 degrees in June, which suited me perfectly.
This was my first cruise with Ponant, aboard Le Dumont d’Urville, after sailing only with Silversea, and I came away very impressed. Before we had really got underway, the ship had changed course to watch dolphins, and later it diverted for better views of Mount Etna and Stromboli. That flexibility is the real advantage of a small ship.
With up to 184 guests, embarking and disembarking is quick, there are no crowds and it is easy to move around. The mix of passengers is international, and the captain’s area is open to everyone. Lunch and dinner were consistently excellent, with hot dishes cooked properly.
A small ship is a different style of cruising, and it helps to know what to expect. The pool is compact, there are two restaurants plus room service, and there is less shopping and entertainment than on a larger vessel, so it suits those who prefer a quieter, more intimate pace. Laundry is chargeable and sent out, which is worth allowing for on a longer voyage. A few sea days are lovely, and on a ship this size I would choose an itinerary with plenty of ports. I would happily sail with Ponant again.
Elba was another lovely surprise. The countryside reminded me of Tuscany, and the waterfront town felt like Portofino but far less crowded. The harbour was full of beautiful boats, and it felt like somewhere that has not completely given itself over to tourism. Shopping was noticeably dearer than in Malta.
Arev was my biggest surprise, and I loved it from the moment I walked in. The design is bold, in red, blue and white taken from the St Tropez flag, and it makes a real statement. There is no reception desk. You are welcomed personally and given a WhatsApp contact for anything you need, so it feels like arriving at a beautiful private home. It is a 15 to 20 minute walk from the main square, with a complimentary shuttle through the day and evening. It captured the South of France better than almost any hotel I visited.
Hotel Byblos, a member of Leading Hotels of the World, is St Tropez glamour. It feels like a small village spread over a hillside, a few minutes from the main square, with Lebanese influences and a palette of terracotta and burnt orange. No two rooms are alike. The large suite I saw had two lounge areas and a balcony over the pool, so you may want to draw the curtains for privacy. There are many interconnecting rooms, so it suits families, and the beach club is a major attraction.
Hôtel de Paris is a contemporary five-star on a larger scale, with a polished, modern feel. The sea-view and courtyard rooms are pleasant, the junior suite is the better choice for a longer stay, and the rooftop pool has lovely views. It sits at the edge of town beside the designer shops, so it suits travellers who want modern luxury close to the action.
COMO Le Beauvallon has only 42 keys across extensive gardens, and a sculpture park with more than 300 artworks. A boat takes you to town in about eight minutes, which is a lovely touch. My suite was stylish and sea-facing, with the clean lines COMO is known for, and storage is compact, as you would expect in a historic building. The beach and pool are a walk down from the main building, so allow for that if mobility matters, and the beach club was relaxed and quiet when I visited. It is a beautiful, understated setting.
Le Yaca has 34 rooms and five villas in the heart of St Tropez, so you can walk everywhere. The restaurant and small pool area felt intimate and very French. The hotel was full during my visit, so I could not see a guest room, and a full room refurbishment is planned over the coming winter. There are no lifts, with rooms spread over three levels. It is charming, well placed and full of character.
Arev – For atmosphere, personality
Byblos – For glamour, character and a lively social scene.
Hôtel de Paris – For contemporary five-star luxury, rooftop views and convenience.
Le Yaca – For intimate boutique charm and an unbeatable central location.
COMO – For understated luxury, contemporary design, art and privacy in beautiful historic surroundings.
Lisa Lilley - [email protected]
Ph: 09 477-0212
Thank you to Ponant & COMO hotels for the opportunity to experience a Ponant Cruise, visit Malta and St Tropez - loved it!
