Donna Hill and her husband Graham sailed with Ponant on Le Boréal for 21 nights in March 2026, visiting the Antarctic and Sub-Antarctic Islands, South Georgia, the Falkland Islands and the Valdes Peninsula.
Some trips earn the words bucket list, and this was one of them for us. We spent three weeks on a small expedition ship in the far south, with penguins, seals, whales and landscapes I had only seen in photographs. Here is what it was like, and what I would tell you before you go.
The views were wonderful; cruising out of Ushuaia at the bottom of the world was an exciting beginning to a fabulous trip. The sea life, animals, birds, and the dramatic mountains covered in flora, snow and ice were remarkable. The Drake Passage was abundant with sea life, whales, dolphins, and various sea birds. Then in Antarctica were the many species of penguins, seals, huge sea lions, and more whales, dolphins, and birds.
Travelling in a small ship meant we could visit many different parts of Antarctica, and each area or island had a different species of penguin or bird from the last. We were also entertained by pods of different dolphins, almost daily throughout the trip.
My favourite of all were the King Penguins on South Georgia. Thousands of them on every beach, as far as the eye could see. It was bucket list stuff. So many of them gather in one place, and as they’re not hunted, they don’t see humans as a threat, so you can wander amongst them with ease. They’re so entertaining. We could’ve stayed there for days just being amongst them. We recommend South Georgia to anyone considering a trip to Antarctica; it makes the trip longer, but is extremely worth it, so make sure it is on your itinerary.
The ship’s flexibility was a highlight too. The different ships in the area radio each other and tell them of things of interest, so we could divert the course and visit alternative places we would not normally have seen, including a couple of extra stops along the Valdes Peninsula, which were a treat.
The Drake crossing was easy for us. It’s either the “Drake Shake” or the “Drake Lake”. Thankfully, we got the “Lake”. The only rougher patch was for a couple of days on the way from the peninsula to South Georgia, which had some swells, but most people found it manageable enough.
As the final sailing of the season, ours did not go as deep into the Weddell Sea along the peninsula, where the larger icebergs are. We still reached Antarctica and the Sub-Antarctic islands, and the captain and crew confirmed it. Ships with a stronger ice-class hull can venture further in at that time of year, so if you plan to travel early or late in the season and want the deepest ice, choose one of them. Ask us and we will match the ship to the dates. Regardless, our itinerary offered everything we needed, and more.
Le Boréal is a small ship with 132 staterooms and suites and 145 crew, a ratio that allows at least one landing a day for everyone, weather permitting. Our cabin had a balcony, which was fantastic for getting outside when animals and birds were around, rather than having to go up to the main viewing deck every time. Even just to have the fresh air and sit out in the sun sometimes was lovely. There are two restaurants, three bars, a spa, and a gym, with daily yoga in the theatre and dancing lessons and twice-daily activities in the lounge. The crew in every department were knowledgeable, kind, and friendly. Our guest dynamic was 50% French, 30% Australian, 10% New Zealand and 10% from the rest of the world. Everyone got on fabulously. The food was excellent, and the two sommeliers wine matched our dinners. There’s a large buffet breakfast, but we preferred to order items from the à la carte menu. Try the morning smoothies, French pastries, and fruits, which change every day. The cold food choices on the buffet were excellent at every meal, as well.
A few practical points. The ship has Starlink, so I could connect to Wi-Fi wherever we were. Bring a power converter adaptor. There’s no launderette, but laundry services were reasonably priced and sometimes were returned on the same day. The spa treatments were excellent. You don’t need cash on board, and gratuities are included, but you may want to have a few US dollars handy for tipping a particular crew member or two at the end.
A Zodiac landing or excursion every day is included. Ponant gives you a fabulous warm excursion jacket to keep, and supplies the boots and life preservers, which are kept outside your cabin door at the end of each day. Kayaking was the only paid excursion on my cruise. It is an exhilarating way to get close to the water, the icebergs, cliffs, and the playful sea life. Paddling through ice floats banging on the side of the kayak really brings it home that you’re in a special part of the world. Some ships offer helicopter flights, which are also an additional charge. Guests on our cruise found hiking sticks were helpful on the uneven terrain of the landings. Some took a small backpack to keep cameras, water bottles and things (all in a plastic bag inside the pack) to keep them dry, but I was happy using my mobile phone (on a lanyard in case I dropped it) and got some wonderful pictures and videos.
In Port Stanley, in the Falkland Islands, we had lunch at the Waterfront Café, a short walk from the wharf. As you can’t get freshly caught fish on board whilst out at sea, it was great to have the locally caught fresh fish and chips and homemade pub-style treats, with excellent food, service, and prices. Port Stanley and Puerto Madryn are both flat and easy to walk around. In Puerto Madryn, we enjoyed the morning tour, which runs on 45-seat coaches, so if you have mobility needs, arrange assistance in advance. Both the Falklands and Puerto Madryn accept eftpos, Wise and credit cards. There are small convenience stores in both ports, should you need to top up on anything.
We spent a night in Buenos Aires at the Sofitel in Recoleta, which has an excellent location, great food, and service. It is a convenient place for the Ponant team to meet you and get you to the airport for the charter flight the next morning. The steak I had there was one of the best I have tasted, and breakfast had great choices even for a group leaving at 6 am.
Do not overpack. It is warm on board, and you can wear normal clothes inside and outside on sunny days. Keep a light jacket handy if in public spaces, so if wildlife appears, you can stay and enjoy it rather than running for your camera, because it may be gone by the time you return. Keep your phone or camera within reach, perhaps on a lanyard, and bring mini binoculars. If all else fails, the ship’s photographers take some great shots and sell them at the end of the cruise.
Finally, think about whether a long cruise like this suits you, as three weeks is a long time at sea for some people, although there were only 3 times we were ‘At Sea’ without land for 2 or 3 days at a time.
It is a wildlife lover’s dream. Le Boréal suits adventurers who like a little comfort and luxury, with great service and food, and the flexibility of getting into the smaller places a larger ship can’t. If that sounds like you, get in touch and tell us when you would like to travel, and we will help you choose the right itinerary and dates.
