My African adventure with World Journeys began on 27 October - the brief was to be in Arusha, Tanzania by the evening of 29 October. The journey kicked off with the long-haul flight to Dubai where I used the transit time to have a pedicure at the spa bar in the terminal. I then flew onto Dar es Salaam and Kilimanjaro on increasingly smaller aircraft. By the time I landed at Kilimanjaro, it was late in the evening and a host from &BEYOND warmly greeted me at the airport to transfer me onto Arusha. A 90-minute drive which was an experience in itself, offering a sensory-rich introduction to East Africa. The “no-passing lane” roads were bustling with trucks, cars, motorbikes overtaking each other and avoiding the many pedestrians. The air carried the smoky aroma of open fires, where locals prepared their evening meals and roadside vendors sold their wares.
Arriving at the Gran Meliá Arusha was like stepping into an oasis of calm. The hotel was modern and inviting, with a spa, fitness area, and a beautiful pool surrounded by many outdoor lounging spaces. My two-night stay here was the perfect way to recover from the long-haul travel and to recharge as I eased into the trip. I could not resist a Signature massage from a therapist aptly named Happiness. The hotel’s unique features added a special touch to the experience: like its own coffee plantation and on-site craft shops showcasing local artistry.
The real adventure began on 30 October - we were finally off on safari! The day started with a 40-minute flight in a tiny 11-seater plane where I had a front row view of the cockpit and pilots as they navigated the skies. The hum of the engines and the breath-taking views below heightened the anticipation for what lay ahead.
The short flight brought us to Lake Manyara Airport where the adventure truly began. At the tiny airport, we were met by our driver-guides from &BEYOND, who greeted us with chilled bubbles and a spread of delicious snacks – a perfect prelude to the journey ahead. We set off on the 3.5-hour journey through Lake Manyara National Park to reach our accommodation – we were very excited, wondering what we were going to see and experience. The roads were dusty and bumpy but hardly a bother as we began spotting wildlife at every turn. Our guides were nothing short of extraordinary, spotting animals as they navigated the road - baboons, monkeys, majestic elephants, a lioness and her cubs, bucks, warthogs, water buffalo, herons, ibis...! We stopped enroute for a picnic lunch at a scenic spot and by the time we reached the lodge, the spirit of safari had firmly taken hold!
We were greeted at the entrance to &BEYOND Lake Manyara Tree Lodge by all the staff who were singing and dancing and offering cool, white towels – the towels were not white for long after we had wiped off all the dust from our faces! Nature greeted us also with baboons casually drinking from the trough around the swimming pool. I could not resist a quick dip in the pool before dinner which was very refreshing.
The treehouse-style lodges were a dream, elevated off the ground and thoughtfully designed to blend luxury with the surrounding wilderness. Each lodge featured a lovely sleeping area, spacious bathroom complete with an outdoor shower, a lounge with a well-stocked mini-bar and a private deck perfect for unwinding. With no fences around the property, animals roam freely making it a rule that guests cannot walk from their rooms to the main lodge unescorted. You simply call your butler, and they will guide you after dark, ensuring your safety amid the wilderness. We dined under the stars in a very peaceful setting, listening to the orchestra of nature all around. A perfect moment of harmony between luxury and wild.
The next morning began with a delicious breakfast where we shared the honey with the bees, and we then set off back through the Lake Manyara National Park. It didn’t take long for the action to start – just two minutes past the lodge gate, we encountered a bachelor elephant, a young male casually going about his morning. The morning was mainly all about elephants and baboons. More bachelors and then some family groups plus a lively troop of baboons grooming and foraging. We had an up-close look at the diverse personalities of the parks inhabitants, and we were enthralled with every moment.
After an unforgettable morning in Lake Manyara, it was time for the next chapter of our adventure. Back at the airport, we met our new team from &BEYOND who would be taking us to the legendary Ngorongoro Crater!
The transition was marked with the signature &BEYOND hospitality – warm welcome, chilled bubbles and a quick briefing about what lay ahead.
The drive up the crater road was rough – a bumpy, rutted road full of traffic.
By the time we reached the lodge, we’d forgotten about it as we were greeted with joyous singing and dancing of the &BEYOND Ngorongoro Crater Lodge staff.
After a brief stop to marvel at our gorgeous, quirky rooms, we picked up our picnic lunches and headed straight into the crater. Holy heck...what a place. Flamingos, jackals coveting the lions leftovers, elephants, lions sleeping in the middle of the track as thought they owned it – which of course they do! We even caught sight of a rare black rhino. Birdlife was equally spectacular – pelicans and the elegant grey crowned crane, Tanzania’s national bird. The abundance of wildlife was staggering to see: Elands, buffalo, zebras, gazelles, antelopes, wildebeest....sublime! One notable absence – Giraffes. They are not found in the crater as the sides are too steep for them to navigate. However, we did spot a few towering gracefully on the drive up to the rim of the crater, alongside traditional Masai huts and villages.
Ngorongoro Crater truly lived up to its reputation – surreal and unforgettable.
We made it back to the lodge just before dusk - vehicles must be out of the crater by 6pm and funnily enough, it was the three &BEYOND jeeps racing up the crater road, making the summit with two minutes to spare! The staffs attention to detail was evident as our butlers had prepared hot bubble baths for us all. While that was tempting, I chose instead to join a few others on the front verandah, where we sat in awe and watched the sun set over the crater. Once darkness fell, we had to be escorted back to our rooms to prepare for dinner. We were met with a surprising sight - the field outside our rooms was alive with scores of water buffalo and zebras! They had wandered in and set up camp to graze.
The lodge and its rooms are designed in the shape of traditional Masai huts. Inside, the interiors are opulent and cosy, filled with rich dark panelling, a warm fireplace and, chandeliers. The minibar is well stocked and, as always, plenty of snacks on offer. Art deco-style radios cleverly disguise UE booms and persian rugs, crystal glasses and fresh roses make the space feel even more special. Every detail is thoughtfully designed, blending the wild beauty of the surroundings with the luxury of a five-star stay.
The weather had closed in overnight so when we woke the next morning, the view over the crater was shrouded in clouds. Luckily they cleared while we having breakfast and then we were off, back on the road to Lake Manyara Airport for our flight to Serengeti. At the airport, the local shop owners were incredibly persistent in their efforts to entice us into their store but shopping was not on my agenda that day!
After our 50 minute flight to Serengeti, we met our new &BEYOND guides who would be leading us for the next three days. The drive to &BEYOND Serengti Under Canvas was practically a mini game drive in itself and when the guides asked us what we hoped to see, the unanimous answer was clear: hippos and giraffes. Five minutes later, we found ourselves parked by the river and guess what; hippos in the river and giraffes on the far bank! Another surreal moment. Our drive continued with sightings of hyenas, vultures, elephants and zebras. The Serengeti was a stark contrast to everyting we’d seen so far. The topography was completely different – gone were the lush landscapes of Lake Manyara and the crater’s towering rim. Here, the vast open expanse of the Serengeti Plains stretched out in every direction.
As we arrived at &BEYOND Serengeti Under Canvas, we were once again greeted with vibrant singing and dancing of the staff, welcoming us warmly. The camp is mobile, shifting four times a year to stay close to the migration, ensuring your always in the heart of the action. After being introduced to our personal butlers, we settled in for lunch a relaxing lunch, the perfect introduction to the comfort awaiting us.
Fresh supplies get delivered every five days, and nothing is ever too much trouble for the staff. The more they can do to enhance your stay, the better. And what a stay it was. The tents were absolutely gorgeous – spacious and equipped with every luxury you could need. A mini-bar stocked with drinks and snacks, a comfortable daybed, and an outdoor shower where you bathe under the open sky. The ensuite had a proper flushing loo, and the thoughtful touch of hottie bottles tucked into our beds ensured a warm, cosy night. The whole experience left me speechless...a perfect blend of luxury and nature, a true safari escape.
An afternoon game drive was the next thrilling chapter in our Serengeti adventure. Our guide led us to a couple of lionesses who had cubs but they were keeping them hidden safely from view. No cuteness to be found that day but the knowledge that there were little ones nearby added to the excitement.
Just as we thought the day couldn’t get any better, our guide’s keen eyes spotted a leopard, perusing her meal options. She too had cubs, though they were nowhere to be seen. Even without the cubs, the mere sight of the leopard in such a natural setting was awe-inspiring.
As we were heading back to camp, it was on dusk and our guide radioed ahead to the camp to let them know who would like a shower before dinner, ensuring that the butlers could prepare hot water in the shower buckets. These thoughtful touches make the experience feel so personal and effortless. Once back at camp, we gathered around the fire for drinks before enjoying an outdoor dining experience. On the way there, our path was momentarily blocked by a snake – an exciting (?) reminder that the Serengeti is full of surprises.
It was an absolutely brilliant afternoon and we had an early night in preparation for the adventure awaiting us the next morning: Hot Air Ballooning over the Serengeti. As dawn broke, we clambered into the basket while it lay on its side and, as the balloon slowly filled with hot air, the basket gently righted itself. Our basket could hold up to 16 passengers, but there were just 10 of us plus the pilot, making for an intimate and exhilarating experience.
Once we were airborne, the scenery was magical and we floated peacefully over the Serengeti with the vast plains stretching below. As the pilot expertly maneuvered the balloon, we spotted warthogs, giraffes, zebra, elephants and hippos, all from a bird’s-eye view. The pilot skillfully took the balloon down low and then back up high, giving us different perspectives of the landscape and wildlife.
We spent over an hour in the air, and the landing was incredibly smooth. Once we touched down, we were greeted with a traditional glass of champagne – a custom with a charming story behind it. Then it was off to enjoy a delicious breakfast right there on the Serengeti plains – a fitting end to a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
On the drive back to camp, we set off in search for crocodiles, and our efforts paid off! Along the way, we added mongoose, monitor lizard and kingfishers to our growing list of sightings and thoroughly enjoyed seeing more giraffes, hippos and zebras.
Back at camp, we had an hour to ourselves and most of us took full advantage, catching up on some rest before heading to lunch! The off we went for another afternoon game drive. And what a drive it was.
We knew we were in for a treat when we spotted the lioness calling to her cubs. Their playful antics were utterly captivating and kept us spellbound for the good part of an hour. It was a magical moment...how fortunate were we. Two mothers and five cubs!
We rendezvoused with a couple of other &BEYOND trucks and were treated to drinks of choice while we watched the sunset – a special moment in the heart of the Serengeti. It was incredible how they brought everything to the middle of nowhere; comfortable chairs, a full bar, buckets of ice and an array of snacks – the works! A five-star experience in the wild.
As the sun dipped lower, the guides had to race back to camp as they are not allowed to use headlights on in the National Parks. With the sun setting quickly, it made for a thrilling ride as we made our way back. Once back at camp, we enjoyed a bucket shower before gathering around the campfire for a pre-dinner drink. The evening continued with a magical dinner under the stars – a perfect end to another remarkable day in the Serengeti.
The next morning, we were up early, packed breakfast at hand, and on the road at 7am. The plan was to squeeze in a little more game driving before heading to the airport – and heck, we were lucky! Right out of the gate, giraffes and zebras, but the real thrill came when we happened upon a consortia of four lions. They had made a massive kill – an Eland, the largest antelope – and two lions were feasting while the other two had already had their fill, their bellies visibly bloated! Lined up nearby, ready to go were the hyenas, jackals and vultures.
Our guide, Elias, managed to get our truck stuck, not once, but twice, at a rocky crossing – a bit of an unexpected twist in the tale. Thankfully, the other truck in our group was there to tow us out, but things got even more exciting when they ended up balancing on two wheels while they did the crossing!
After that little bit of adventure, we made our way to the border marker between Tanzania and Kenya. It was a cool moment... I can argue now that I’ve set foot in Kenya!
A short 25-minute flight from Serengeti Airport to Grumeti Airstrip on another tiny aircraft. Flight departure times are always subject to change so you just go with the flow on the day. The flight coordinators liaise with the lodges as they finalise, on a daily basis, the best way to get everyone to their destinations. From the airstrip, it was only a 5-minue drive to the lodge. As soon as the flights land, the drivers head to the airport as they know they will arrive by the time everyone, and their luggage, disembarks!
&BEYOND Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge - WOW – what a stunning property. As we walked down the entrance pathway, we were greeted with song and dance from the welcoming staff. The path led us straight into the lobby and lounge area where there are views to the river. In the river, hippos going about their daily business. So entertaining and glorious.
Before lunch, we had enough time to check out our rooms and a take a dip in the private plunge pool which also overlooked the river where more hippos were hanging out. Surreal experience to be lounging by the pool with such amazing wildlife just a stone’s throw away. The rooms at the lodge are huge and so thoughtfully designed – one very cool feature was a window where the butlers could deliver food and drinks directly to your room without having to enter your room. A small detail that really adds to the sense of privacy and luxury during your stay. We then headed to lunch where we dined overlooking the antics of the hippos in the river.
At 430pm, we set off for our afternoon game drive and the Serengeti once again delivered. We spotted graceful giraffes, hippos and the highlight – three lionesses with five adorable cubs. As the sun began to dip, we were infor a delightful surprise. Our guides drove us to the top of a rocky outcrop, where a special “Bubbles in the bush” sundowner awaited us. Guards discreetly on duty to ensure our safety! Dinner back at the lodge was lovely as we dined under the stars with the ever-present hipps providing a unique serenade throughout the night, reminding us how special it was to be here.
Our final morning on safari began with an early game drive in search of the elusive cheetah, the only major sighting still missing from our wildlife wishlist. It was a lovely, cool morning of exploring the sprawling Serengeti plains and while we did see a hippo making its way back to the river, no cheetah sighting for us. We saw plenty of other creatures so were not disappointed; warthogs, dik diks, zebras, buffalos, wildebeest and an array of beautiful birds - we were happy.
Breakfast back at the lodge was exciting as one of the hippos was stirring up trouble, bellowing and creating quite the scene as he sent other hippos from the river. With a bit of time to relax, we soaked in our final moments in this extraordinary setting.
When the flight came into view, it was time to head to the airstrip for our journey to Zanzibar. As we boarded the flight, there was a bittersweet feeling – our safari adventure had come to an end.
Reflecting on the experience, it was nothing short of extraordinary. Each lodge offered something unique, from the settings and wildlife to the warm and accommodating staff. The food was consistently outstanding, the attention to detail was superb and the variety between the four lodges provided a well-rounded experience of what it means to be on a luxury safari.
Arriving into Zanzibar was a bit of a shock...the heat, so many people and traffic jams! Ugh.
We stayed two nights at Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa – a Relais & Chateaux property. The area where this resort is located is a 90 minute drive from the airport and the sand is so fine and very white. Each villa has its own private pool, outdoor shower and butler service! The resort offers a roof top bar, snorkelling gear, SUP, kayaks, bicycles and is a 5 minute tuk-tuk ride from the local village shops.
We did site inspections of a few resorts near White Sand Villas and then headed back into Zanzibar township for an inspection of the Park Hyatt, lunch and a walking tour of Stone Town. Zanzibar was a wonderful way to finish the trip. It was well worth experiencing Stone Town and the sights, sounds, smells and history of the walking tour.
The highlight of the journey was undoubtedly the animals and game drives. The guides were phenomenal; great enthusiasm and as delighted as we were with each discovery. The &BEYOND lodges were incredible, I would have liked more time to enjoy these but that would have meant more calorie consumption... always a compromise!
My recommendation is GO and take a good camera!
